Just as each supple orb splits open to reveal the pimiento-stuffed green cocktail olive buried in its center, this casual spot represents so much more than its unassuming storefront might suggest. Kurt SollerĪ shallow bowl of albondigas, golf-ball-size spheres of beef, crowned with a sprig of cilantro and luxuriating in a tomato-chile sauce the color of sun-baked clay - in many ways, this modest dish, which is only sometimes on the menu at La Morada, is an apt metaphor for the restaurant itself. The list should, nonetheless, get you excited to try new flavors around town as New York’s ever-changing culinary scene comes (carefully) back to life post-lockdown - or at least make you very hungry. (We also spent lots of time talking about the pizza from Razza in Jersey City, which surely would have earned a spot had it not been a river away.) Ultimately, though, conversations like this are always subjective - a different menu of worthy picks would have emerged from a different panel, or even from this same group on a different day. In their place is a creamy, pungent sauce, from a recently opened Middle Eastern restaurant, meant for smearing on anything in sight, and a rotating spread from a two-table Indonesian place in Elmhurst, Queens, that can only be described as “weekly lunch.” Our choices span many neighborhoods and every borough except Staten Island, though there was lots of discussion about what we might include from there, even if our panelists ultimately decided that nothing quite made the cut. Pizza and tacos aside, almost none of the classics commonly associated with New York are represented, whether bagels, dirty-water hot dogs, xiao long bao or emblematic sweets like rainbow cookies or cronuts.
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The final list, which appears in unranked, alphabetical order below, is nothing like what any of us expected going into this challenge. In the process, we decided that none of the restaurants run by the chefs present could be chosen - nothing from Galindo Maria’s Nenes Deli Taquerias Pandya’s Dhamaka, Adda Indian Canteen or Semma or Robbins’s Misi or Lilia - and nor could our host restaurant (though by the end of our meal, everyone would have selected Thai Diner’s famously towering coconut sundae if we could have). But which dish from each should we highlight? That was one of the many questions that drove hours of intense, mouthwatering argument as we went around the table (thank God we had food in front of us), debating the merits of this or that burger joint, Vietnamese cafe, sushi counter or stalwart fine-dining institution. Two restaurants, however, were nominated twice - Fat Choy, a newish vegan Chinese place on Manhattan’s Lower East Side and Lucali, the iconic pizzeria in the Carroll Gardens section of Brooklyn - which practically ensured their inclusion. Our intent was to be as catholic and creative in our selections as possible, highlighting items both rarefied and workaday that represent the city’s innumerable styles of international cuisine.īefore our meeting, I asked each of the panelists to nominate 10 or so dishes, which we’d all debate in person in an unexpected twist - proving that each of our experts came with their own distinctly attuned palate - there wasn’t a single duplicate. By that, we meant dishes served outside the home, whether at restaurants, food trucks, storefronts or other independent establishments, in all five boroughs.
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Between slurps of fantastic khao soi and tom yum soup, we compiled a list - similar to others T has done on architecture, interiors and art - of the 25 essential things to eat in New York City right now. Last month, I crowded into a wooden booth at NoLIta’s Thai Diner with the chefs Kia Damon, Andrés Tonatiuh Galindo Maria, Chintan Pandya and Missy Robbins the pastry chef Melissa Weller and the T writer-at-large Ligaya Mishan for a languorous weekday lunch.